The mobile phone
Ten thousand meters. เคเคฐो เคฏा เคฎเคฐो
It began at midnight. Indian independence day. There was rain in the air. It's always raining here. My tap 2 tap odyssey would start any moment. 3 minutes late. I need my GPS device to catch good signal strength. It goes green and beep and off I go.
Prelude:
The hardrock means so much to me. Considered to be one of the most picturesque runs in the world. After countless YouTube videos and online resources, it's etched in my CPU. Entries are reserved for a select few. 2020 - The year of the pandemic. So, with this year's edition cancelled, they come out with a 100 mile virtual race. If you can't go to Silverton, bring the Hardrock experience home.
Hmm, interesting.
100 miles+10000m elevation gain. A similar analogy would be scoring a century and taking 5 wickets in the same cricket match. I have a simple policy in life (not the take-it-easy policy). "I can do it. Therefore I will do it." The "do" is important. How? I aimed to find out.
My ideal pre-race day would involve sleeping at least 12 hours. Not this time though. Had to go buy chocolates and Parle G biscuits ( yes vegans, I understand that there are traces of milk solids. These cost less than a dollar for a kilo - so, staple food for a mountain pauper it is). Then I was waiting for the online registration to happen at the nth moment. Worsening things were the wet socks. I had not a single pair dry. Such is my plight in the mountains.
00.03 am. Tap 1 - 9143ft above sea level. Perhaps, the highest point in this valley where there is a a tap with flowing water. I set off without much thought. It's gonna be a long day, I imagined. Headlight on, pitter-patter rain all around, I start off conservatively. Water is flowing and the terrain is slippery. The initial few hours pass by with me trying to get into a nice, steady rhythm. Most of it on steps and a bit on trail. Tried to stick to my Hell ultra strategy. Less than 15 minutes per mile i.e. 4 miles per hour. I was happy with my progress. Slowly, darkness gave way to grey skies. I hear tweets (not of the online kind). The rain subsided around 08:00 a.m. and I shed some bodyweight (you know from where).
I craved for hot food. I had to make do with last evening's roti and Parle G (453k calories per 100g)
No stopping. Just reach the top. Downwards, my heart rate stabilizes but the quads are getting trashed with the hard impact. Podcasts can be a welcome respite from the monotony and I tuned into some of my favourites - The Rich Roll podcast, The Joe Rogan's experience and also played the occasional 108x Gayatri mantra on loop. Thats one of my coping mechanisms.
12 hours into the run, I hadn't reached even 6000m of climbing. Tired, I used poles to balance my efforts on the body. Tourists were trickling in.
15th August is Indian Independence Day. It is also the sawan (monsoon) month so it is an auspicious day in the Hindu calendar. People flock to holy places such as the place I live.(Solang)
The frequent hello, namaste, where are you from? Why are you running? It makes me stop because it's not in my nature to be rude. It irritates me though, much to my chagrin. I'm losing time. Not to mention, those quizzical looks I got all along - this dude in shorts is drenched yet running up and down in the cold rain.
The third half of the run was plagued with self-doubt. I felt like an automobile. The core of my body being the engine and my legs being the wheels. By then I was totally sapped of energy. I could feel the power (apparent lack thereof) to my legs. Why should I continue, I wondered. Dispelling these negative thoughts, I started planning ahead. With the weather deteriorating, I decided to head to lower altitudes. My mind is a terrible mess.
On the way, I met my good friend Nupur Singh. She offered me a vegan laddu (very tasty) and the much-awaited Unived gel. Ever so kind and supportive, a champion runner herself, I am greatful to her. (So that makes this a supported attempt. With so much talk about FKTs this year, it's is on every competitive runner's mind. Ha ha!). My canine companion, Goldie the mongrel trots along as I head down the road with renewed gusto.
It's dusk and I picked up the pace as I climb above Vashist. I decide to do the "temple run". A circuit of the three popular temples in this region. Vashist, Hadimba and Manu temple. I could use some divine assistance now, I thought, bowing to the almighty.
I still had to do about 2000m of climbing. Stray dogs barked at me. A cop on night duty warned me sternly to go home. In the darkness, the pace was excruciatingly slow. Blisters inside were deteriorating. I ran out of calories.I chucked my plan of running all downhill and instead decided to return home. Up all night, Not a light in sight (pardon the alliteration/rhyme)
The sleep-deprived zombiness (is there such a word?) wasn't as commonplace as before. Hell ultra (https://www.thehellrace.com/hell-ultra/), Tor des geants etc. fall under a different league. 'vera level' : as they say in South India.
The last hour was all out sprinting. At least by my standards. Frequently grunting and heavy breathing, I gave it all I got. Like that annoying gym show-off. The gel did its job. The tank was empty. The watch showed 100 miles. Done. Collapsed and kissed a rock.
This Hardrock was not so hard, after all.
Epilogue:
A virtual challenge of these sorts has a raw purity to them. You are alone, you know the stats, you get it done. Many thanks to Veronica and everyone in the Asia Trail Girls club ( https://www.asiatrailgirls.com). This concept of the vertical challenge is amazing. A big shout out to Vishwas Bhai who is always helpful. Also, the good folks at pwrlab ( https://pwrlab.com/leaderboards/2020-hardrock100/) and members of the Hardrock hundred community who have been showering kind words.
The body may be hurting, but the mind is already on my next challenge.
To wrap things up, let me steal something off the internet.
Strava
Solang Sky Ultra 2019
How much does a cap mean to you? After all it just provides respite from the elements doesn't it? Rain, wind, snow or sun.. just put a cap on!
I think caps have different connotations to different sportsmen. For them, the significance of the cap is far more than that of mere headwear, of course.
- An Indian cap has to be earned, resonates Sunil Gavaskar in his book sunny days when his uncle Madhav Mantri denied him one for free.
- The baggy green garners special respect from Australian cricketers, often spanning an entire career ร la Steve Waugh and Ricky Ponting amongst others.
When a senior hands it to a junior, it’s special. To receive is to feel blessed. And it becomes the most prized possession.
This is how it panned out. Meet the local legend - my hero in Himachal, Olympian, ski coach and champion paraglider, 40 plus year old, father of two - Hira Lal. Now, he challenged me at the 100k distance. How can I back out? He promised me a Swiss cap if I won the race "Vishwas bhai, keep a bib ready for me tomorrow", I proclaimed. I had some racing to do. Against serious competitors.
Prelude: I had just returned to Himachal after my "so-so" performance at the Tor des Geants, Italy. I'm wary of putting it online. I don't like to sound like a whiner but the fact of the matter is that I was stopped by the medics (against my wishes) for close to 15 hours to stabilize my chest congestion. I had coughed and spat out some blood, no big deal. I was shy of my A-goal: a sub-100hr finish. Big deal.
I was not 100%. Recovery takes months, I was told. My intention here was to volunteer and work with the Hell race team to make Solang sky ultra a success. Long slow hikes every day for a week became the norm as we diligently marked the course. Dirty, wet clothes and shoes. Beat-up body. No taper. No carb-loading. Zero race nutrition planned. Should I still race? I asked myself. Hell yes! I want that Swiss cap, I wrapped my head around it, hoping it would be the other way round, post-race.
Race day: I wake up early after restless sleep. Cooked a Maggie and ate a few biscuits. Dumped all apparel and shoes (read smelly) I had into my TOR duffel bag and set off from my village. Sat at the start venue and took over the bib distribution duties. It's nice when you meet every runner (your competitors) pre-race as I got sense of their mindset. Some race hard to podium, some are in for the experience, some enjoy camaraderie and companionship. Others just want to finish within cut-offs. Sadly, there will also be characters who seem untrained, pessimistic and complainers in general. Often, post-race, they seek the comforts of being a keyboard warrior and rant away online. Such is today's age, anonymous people take sides and a debate catches fire - without knowing on-ground facts. As I dip my toes into this strange internet era, driven by likes, click-bait and "Oh, look-at-me" lives, I wonder what do they get out of it. For now, I'll be an innocuous bystander and chuckle away.
Coming back to race day, I was starving. My stomach felt queasy. Minutes left for the start at noon, I left the desk and changed. Reached the start line. A quick word to Hira Lal - "let's run our own race". He nodded. Some faces looked at me surprised "Are you running too?" To which I replied "Just fancied a long hike in the mountains"
At noon, race director - Vishwas Bhai flagged us off. Without much fanfare it was 3,2,1 go!
No matter how much I coax myself, I can't easy-pace myself at the back-of-the-pack. A short burst, and I take the lead. A local runner who registered at the nth moment, tried to catch up. I keep the pace up and could hear him breathing hard. Off we climb, towards the Shiv Ling at Anjani Mahadev. Nupur and Devaiah were there cheering us on. So nice. After a U-turn at the top, I could gauge the field behind me - still climbing. Jai Govind, the professional athlete, was my only immediate concern. He had acclimatized in Solang and was putting in good speed work in the valley. So, I kept a fastish pace till my throat was parched before the Kothi climb. Filled my bottles with flowing water and took out my poles. Time for a hike. On reaching Kothi, the ever-smiling Bharat was there at the hydration point. Not now, I chuckled, posed for a pic and started to climb. Earphones on, peppy music blaring, I feel good as I sing (read yell) along. I look down and Jai Govind smiles at me.
Another climb up Anjani Mahadev and it's dark. I turn on my headlights and descend. Saw Jai Govind as he had started too. Now the descent was towards Buruwa village. Across streams, I gingerly tiptoed over rocks. Shucks, I wore the wrong shoes, I realized. The sole was flapping below. They had seen better days and were in its final stages. Jai Govind was nowhere behind. Kept a steady pace across road sections and went past Nehru Kund and Bahang. Pratyush and team were there in the Isuzu with refreshments. It had rained and the roads were wet. I told them not to worry about me, just inform the others behind to stay on the right route. The climb to Jogini waterfall was steady. Jai Govind started calling me frequently, asking me where I was. This happened till the finish. Got a little frustrating, but I remained calm. I clearly mentioned the route, the deviation to Vashisht and I took off. The so-called "death climb" beckoned. I wanted some calories at Vashisht. "Peanut butter?" I asked. They had no clue where it was. I'll manage with what I was carrying, I thought. Warm water and some Tailwind®, I was sorted. I let the warm water flowing outside Vashisht hot spring run over my knees. I can definitely vouch for its therapeutic powers. Mentally, I was a little sad that my shoes were ripped. Since the sole had come off, the climbing got laborious. Putting all my body weight on poles, I hauled myself up. Traction was poor at my feet. I needed a distraction. I took out my music player and listened to the audiobook "Eat and Run" by Scott Jurek. For the hundredth time. I'm reminded of my run up Volcanoes in Indonesia- two steps up, one slide down. Finally reached a little clearing after the forest - Moridugh ( remember dugh?). A fire was lit and men huddled around taking in the warmth. "Where's food?", I enquired. "In the kitchen tent some 5 minutes above". I got in and met some more locals including Balram from Solang. Gobbled dal, rice and vegetables. Not hot, (they didn't expect runners this early) but solid food nevertheless. Out soon. Flat trail (but slushy) till the infamous British bridge. Plates had been laid out this time over the scaffolding-like skeleton structure. Suresh, the volunteer from Solang was kind enough to accompany me across and show me the way using his torchlight. After that, it was a grassy, wide trail. The British used this path earlier, it was a Jeep track, I was told. This section was only applicable to 100k runners. Then, the trail abruptly ended. A huge landslide had occurred, so we had to climb up and across scree and loose earth. This section, albeit short was probably the steepest section of the race. Reaching 14 mode (the 14th hairpin bend after Gulaba towards Rohtang) was a relief. Drop bag at km 67. Again, a change of shoe and additional layers to combat the cold ahead. I took it easy here, chatting with Baba and Gagan ( he DNFed a while earlier and was volunteering. Wow!) Glugged down Unived supergreens to keep my gut from rebelling. Used a secondary headlamp on my waist because I expected it to be tricky going up.
Off towards Brighu lake - the highest point on this course ~4100m. Past the tree line, it got confusing at night. That's because there are many trails running parallel to each other up the grassy mountain. No stones, no trees it's very difficult to mark this part too. Mountaineering common sense has to prevail- keep climbing in one direction, looking for signs - horse/ cow dung, flattened grass - basically anything which indicates some being was here earlier. Past some Gaddi tents, the gradient eased out. Little streams were crossed with ease and it got noticeably colder. About 2km before the camp at Roli kohli, (pronounced similar, not sure how it's spelt) it started to snow. As I climbed further, the landscape turned white. "Pack ho gaya" is how the locals would describe this. There were about 10 tents scattered at Roli kohli but not a flicker of light. I tapped on each tent yelling "Hell race? Hell race?". Easily spent some 40 minutes before I could find our folks. Naveen and team had snuggled into their sleeping bags for the night. “Get up guys, I gotta Go”, I exclaimed. "Risk hai ji" I was told calmly. I tried to venture out in the snowstorm but visibility was near zero. A blizzard-like scene. My fingers were numb. One has no sense of direction, and markings were out of the equation. I was a cat on a hot tin roof. They heated some water and made black coffee. Aah, delightful ! I calmed down and we had to take a decision for the safety of all. Tried the walky talky - no signal. Then Naveen and his friend grabbed a phone and we all hiked up the hill to a point where mobile network was a possibility. Informed Johnny bhai of our situation. Then got through to Vishwas Bhai. Again they claimed to him "risk hai, Bhai". He thought for a while and said "Ok, get down". This after all was a race. Going further was not an option. I couldn't hunker down in the camp waiting for weather to clear, could I? I set off downwards immediately and it was such a relief to get past the ice. I met Jai Govind half way down and updated him on the situation. Ditto with navy guys - Sanjay and Yogesh Tiwari sir. Also Hira lal and Andrei (Romanian). I observed that runners had gelled in pairs or small groups. Oh, I wish!
Back, the same route down. I was sleep deprived and thus memories seem a little blur. The skies turned gray as I approached Kothi. I've to do some more climbs, I knew. Vishwas Bhai told that we had to do the Sagadugh climb once more to compensate the distance. That's almost a VK! (vertical kilometer i.e 1000m climb in less than 5km) That too at the fag end of a race. Jai Govind called me constantly, asking where I am. Let me get this done, I decided and popped a gel I had preserved. Up and down. Nepali guy notes my number and time. Down to the Beas wooden bridge. Adi clicked a pic. And up again. One last time. It was exhausting in sunshine’s full glory. 3rd time he notes my bib number. I'm first on all three occasions. As I descend, I spot Jai Govind near the village. Spent, he had stopped and was staring into the distance. I encouraged him to hurry up. Yep, I had built a fair lead. Shouldn't do anything silly the last few Kms. But hey, the only way to go downhill is fast. These thoughts were messing my brain. Passing the village, it was such a lovely feeling. There was a Dham (feast) that day. It seemed like every one had stepped out to cheer me on. Word got out that I was in first place. This mad fellow who they had seen all winter - running up and down. He is actually number one. My landlord, Thakur ji, a fine mountaineer in his prime, offered me a Frooti. "Kaamyab raho" (be successful) were his parting words, like always. Got me a bit emotional. The only finish I know is a strong one. So I charge, across the river, towards Hotel Iceland. Onlookers hooted as they saw me approach. The red, Hell Race finish line was visible. A hop, skip and it was done. Just like that. My long hike in the mountains was over.
It was a relaxed atmosphere. Hugs were warm and genuine. Slowly runners settled in for the prize giving ceremony. Col. Rana awarded the medals.
Looking back, I would like to express my deepest thanks to Vishwas Bhai. This time you were here early and the planning was commendable. Your calmness in all situations never cease to amaze me. Bhai, Brighu se aage marking abhi baaki hai ๐. Baba - what an amazing course this is! Next time - 100 miler. I can confidently say that Baba did the most climbing amongst all leading up to the race. Ever smiling, you never know. Good job 'drone'acharya - Pratyush! Great dedication, amazing shots too. Roshan Bhai, Ludar Bhai, Johnny bhai. This event couldn’t have been possible without you. I'm sure I have forgotten some names, but my sincere thanks to one and all.
The cap: True to his word, Hira lal was back. There it was in his hands - a winter beanie, so soft and white as fresh snow. All the way from Switzerland! I had actually dreamt about this.
Bestowed upon me by my guru with his blessings. So satisfying. It was a feather in the cap indeed.
https://www.strava.com/activities/2769243420












